Fremont to Febbas – 16 of 23

Jackson, Fremont, Sacagawea, Helen

2 responses to “Fremont to Febbas – 16 of 23

  1. Alex Lennon says:

    Hey Sean,
    I caught wind of your WY13K effort on Peakbagger, and was blown away that you pulled off Fremont to Febbas in a day. Loved your report for that section. Incidentally, the boot prints you saw on Helen glacier were probably mine- my partner and I climbed Warren via the Helen-Forked Tongue saddle about a week before you were there. Great climb. How was the descent off Helen to that saddle? 4th class or easier? I was eyeing a potential ascent route from there, but it was kind of hard to tell if it went just looking from the saddle. Mostly wondering if the average person would consider it technical or not. Seems like the ‘north ridge’ from there would be the most straightforward route out of Titcomb. Thanks for keeping up on this site, I’ve enjoyed reading your reports.
    -Alex

    PS- I came across an old report of yours recently of a climb up the glacier route on Middle Teton- with my buddy Noah! He must have been working at the climbers ranch then. Cool you got to climb with him! I used to rock climb with him a good bit circa 2008-2012 or so. Nice guy and a way better climber than me. He’s up in BC these days last time I checked.

    1. drdirtbag says:

      Wow, that’s a blast from the past! I met Noah when he was a Ranch intern, and we did some good climbs that June, including the Middle. He was (and is) way stronger on rock than I am, but the steep snow sketched him out a bit. I hope he’s still getting after it up in BC.

      I think the north ridge from the saddle on Helen was no harder than fourth class. Stay on or west of the ridge until a saddle where the glacier nearly reaches it, then climb a loose gully to the summit plateau. It was fun coming at all those peaks from the “back,” rather than the Titcomb side that most people see. There’s not a lot of info about it.

      BTW, I just ran across your name the other day on Peakbagger as well, for having done a bunch of Turiano’s “Select Peaks.” A great guidebook, and a cool list.

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