Climbed to the summit via the East Face route, then down to Red Saddle and across the Whitewater Glacier to camp in Jeff Park; on that trip in 1988 the traverse was a deep trough and not icy so was “easy.” Two years later we came up the Whitewater, but when got to the Red Saddle the wind was ferocious from the west, and very very cold. The snow on the traverse was very icy. We assessed our skills and protection, and found them lacking and so turned back. Good decisions before you get yourself in trouble!
Climbed to the summit via the East Face route, then down to Red Saddle and across the Whitewater Glacier to camp in Jeff Park; on that trip in 1988 the traverse was a deep trough and not icy so was “easy.” Two years later we came up the Whitewater, but when got to the Red Saddle the wind was ferocious from the west, and very very cold. The snow on the traverse was very icy. We assessed our skills and protection, and found them lacking and so turned back. Good decisions before you get yourself in trouble!
Indeed!