Alpinism done fast, light, and cheap
I can’t tell how spicy but everything I’ve read said this route is challenging.
On the one hand, there was only one short section of sand that made me want to cry, and a good trail to the lake. On the other, there was a rap station at the top of that thing, probably a class 4 downclimb. I might have been able to avoid it to the east, but it wasn’t obvious. Dropping in next to the tooth was a bit spicy and loose as well (I followed an apparent duck to nowhere). It might have been slightly less nasty closer to the tooth.
Hmmm. If I go this way, it sounds like it won’t be by headlamp. Must be cliffs on the other side as it looks like you can traverse right under it.
You may or may not cliff out traversing around the east side. Since the east side is steep earlier on, I came at the top from slightly to the west. I suspect the pass would be much easier coming from Onion Valley, as you get a good look at the traverse below Dragon Tooth from below. It would be tricky by headlamp, but it’s way faster than Kearsarge plus Glen.
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