Category Archives: Gear

Summer Alpine gear

Some readers may be curious about the gear I have been using on my recent adventures in the Alps, where most people carry a lot more and move a lot slower. Since the North Cascades are called the “American Alps,” it is no surprise that I carry Cascades gear, but warmer: a fleece hoodie instead of a wool long-sleeved shirt, a wind shell with a hood instead of one without, heavier socks, and mitts as well as gloves. In more detail, here is what I have used so far.

For my feet, I wear medium-weight wool socks and knobby trail runners. I am currently destroying some Salomon Speedcross 4’s, but La Sportiva Mutants, New Balance Vazee Summits, or Adidas Terrex Trailmakers would also work. I also bring a couple of plastic bread-bags to put between my socks and shoes if needed. This can come in handy when transitioning from a warm, slushy glacier to a cold, windy ridge.

For my torso, I wear a t-shirt (cotton or synthetic — it doesn’t matter), and carry a Mammut fleece hoodie (like a Patagonia R1, but bought on clearance for far less than $200), and a used-to-be-waterproof shell I found on a peak in Nevada. I also carry a $5 poncho if I think it might rain lower down; I cannot climb in it, and it is no good in strong wind, but it is absolutely waterproof, and can serve as a sort of emergency shelter.

For my hands, I bring loose-fitting fleece gloves and mitts. The former do not climb well, but they breathe, and do not constrict my fingers. The latter are much warmer, and waterproof in case I have to spend a lot of time pawing at snow. I have some tighter-fitting, water-resistant gloves I can bring instead of the fleece ones if I need to climb a lot of wet rock and/or snow.

For snow and ice travel, I carry an alpine tool (most recently, the Petzl Sum’Tec I found) and Kahtoola K-10 crampons. This setup is best on low-angle ice and most snow, but can be pushed to handle hard snow and even a bit of ice up to 45 degrees or so. This takes practice, though — if I think I will be doing a lot of steep snow and ice, I will still bring heavy boots.

Griping about packs

It has served me well

In preparation for my soon-to-begin 2018 season, I went shopping for a new pack, as my trusty old REI Stoke 18 is on its last legs. I found something that will do the job, but was surprised at how difficult it is to find a pack that meets my simple needs:

15-20 liter main compartment

This is enough space for a normal winter day or an epic summer one.

2 tool attachments

I don’t do too many things that require two tools, but when I do, it’s nice to be able to strap them to my pack.

Stash pockets

I need to be able to get to food and store small items without taking my pack off, or having stuff in my pants pockets bumping against my leg. Why do no mountaineering packs have stash pockets? Even people doing “Extreme Alpine Assaults” need to eat and store things.

External attachment points

Sometimes I can fit crampons inside my pack, but sometimes I can’t or don’t want to.

Sternum strap and waist belt

They don’t need to be super-substantial, but the pack needs to not flop around while jogging.

Reasonable durability for the cost

If it costs $100+, it had better last at least a few years.

Nothing else

Many packs have all sorts of weird straps and doodads that catch on things and add weight. Sometimes simplicity is best.

Some companies come sooo close:

Gregory Verte 15, discontinued (image: REI)

Take a Gregory Verte 15, add a couple of side stash pockets, and you’d have a condender.

BD Blitz 20 (image: Black Diamond)

The BD Blitz 20 is similar (and no, a “waterproof zip pocket on lid” is not “easily accessible” for anyone with normal shoulder flexibility, as the pack still needs to come off).

UD PB Adventure Vest 3.0 (image: Ultimate Direction)

The Ultimate Direction PB Adventure Vest 3.0 looks decent, but I’m not sold on vests for everyday scrambling, it goes a bit overboards on bits and bobs, and its 13.3-oz weight suggests that it’s made of tissue paper. I’d happily carry 1/2 pound more (and probably save 30% in material cost) for something that lasted longer.

Anyways, I found something that cost less than $100, and should serve me well for at least a couple of seasons. It has some obvious shortcomings

Salomon Speedcross Vario

Cheap materials

Cheap materials

I have generally had good experiences with Salomon’s various “Speedcross” and “fell running” shoes, which combine an aggressive tread, adequate foot protection, and reasonably sticky rubber. So when I found myself out of shoes, and found the Speedcross Varios on clearance, I picked up a pair. Though they look more or less suitable for my purposes, the use of standard laces rather than “quick laces” should have tipped me off to what they are: a clumsy attempt at market segmentation between them ($120) and the even pricier Speedcross Pro ($150) and S-Lab Speedcross ($180).

Delaminating sole

Delaminating sole

Though I slightly prefer speed laces, I don’t mind using the regular kind, and had no trouble making the shoes fit. The problem with the Speedcross Vario is its shoddy materials and construction. Soon after I started using them, the soles started delaminating, something I have not experienced in years with non-Walmart shoes. After a bit of cross-country travel and scree-skiing, the toe rand tore and became unstitched, letting sand and gravel into the shoe and making it useless. I stopped using them after only a few weeks, and eventually threw them away with plenty of tread left.

Salomon shoes normally use good materials and construction, so I was surprised and disappointed. $120 shoes should be better than this.

Brief long-term shoe reviews

I had a gig reviewing shoes this spring, which put me in the unusual position of having more than one pair of new trail runners at the same time, and of owning shoes I did not choose. About half the shoes I tested were clearly not suitable for the mountains, and I have now mostly destroyed the ones that were. Here are my impressions of a few that surprised me. The Amazon links are just for reference, mostly for the photos — they’re not affiliate links or anything.

  • Salomon Sense Pro 2: While these were about as durable and comfortable as expected, they performed surprisingly poorly on class 4-5 rock. With relatively thick and soft midsoles and not-so-grippy rubber, they were scarier than I expected when edging or trying to smear on steeper rock. Salomon makes some shoes that work well in the mountains, but these do not.
  • New Balance Fresh Foam Gobi: I didn’t expect these to work well in the mountains, so I avoided using them until I had mostly destroyed my more capable shoes. I took them up the Mountaineer’s Route on Whitney (class 3) and SE face of Emerson (5.4), and found them terrifyingly bad on rock, with spongy midsoles, too much play in the toe box, and completely non-sticky outsoles. They are also not very protective, and would be similarly scary on steep vegetation and turf as found in the Cascades.
  • Adidas Terrex X-King: These feel a little clunky on trails, and the size 11s I tried (they only make whole sizes, apparently) are a bit roomier than I like. However, they really came into their own in the mountains. The aggressive lugs dig into soft surfaces, but are large enough not to squirm on rock. The rubber is predictable and sticky on rock, and the single piece making up the sole, toe rand, and heel cup is a smart, simple, durable design. The quick-lace system and soft upper make the fit highly adjustable, which in my case mostly let me compensate for the shoes being a bit too big. The shape of the toe box and placement of the lugs makes them climb fairly well — I have felt pretty comfortable on some mid-fifth-class terrain. The main downside is the ridiculous $160 retail price.

Review: La Sportiva Crossleather (RIP)

After two months’ hard use, my La Sportiva Crossleathers finally died. While I have been less than impressed with the durability of some other Sportiva shoes (Quantums), these both performed well and took an amazing amount of abuse. Sadly, they are being discontinued, so the pair I just bought for the rest of this summer will probably be my last.

The Crossleather is basically the Crosslite (mud-running shoe) with a leather upper. I bought them mostly because they were on sale, but found them well-suited to most of what I do, from day-tripping Gannett to climbing the Grand Teton’s Petzoldt Ridge, from long part-trail hikes to soloing 5.4 rock.

What made the Crossleathers work for me? Performance-wise, they have decent grip on mud and snow, their large lugs far better than some other models’ smooth waves. They protect both the toes and sides of your feet, though I prefer the Quantum’s squared-off toe guard. They both climb reasonably well and run like trail runners. The leather makes them somewhat more water-resistant in puddles, but also causes them to stay wet longer once they are fully soaked.

Durability-wise, they remained usable for close to 1000 miles before the soles started simultaneously peeling off and wearing through; the uppers are still in good shape. In the past, the Sierra Challenge (10 days on- and off-trail in the Sierra Nevada) has completely destroyed at least one pair of shoes, tearing the mesh sides and/or peeling off the soles. I expect my new Crossleathers to emerge in usable condition, and to last for the rest of my season.

If you need a light hiker or heavy trail-runner, pick some up while they’re still on clearance.

Miscellaneous gear reviews

I thought some readers might be interested in a few reviews of gear I have used over the past few years.

BD Spot headlamp: sucks

A headlamp should be bright, long-lasting, comfortable, and easy to operate with gloves. Black Diamond’s Spot headlamp could have been a nice piece of gear: it is small enough to be comfortable, and has “flood” and “spotlight” modes in three different intensities (plus “annoying useless blinker mode”). The obvious controls would be levers or switches for “off/spot/flood” and “low/medium/high/blink.”

Sadly, the folks at Black Diamond blew it: instead of something reasonable, the Spot has a single button (small and rubberized, so it’s almost impossible to use with gloves) that tries to do everything. Push it hard, and it will toggle between off/spot/off/flood. Push it “less hard” (again, hopeless in gloves), and it will cycle through brightness settings. A hard press often starts out at the brightest setting, but sometimes will start out where you left off the last time you had it on. You usually find yourself trying “less-hard” presses until you get to “useless blinker,” then proceeding from there to reach the desired setting. The angle adjustment is a hinge at the bottom, meaning that it presses annoyingly against your forehead when running, and can even slip to a lower angle.

My tiny Petzl e-Lite, while not bright enough for running or cross-country travel, at least has sensible controls, in the form of a little lever that sticks out from the light body and cycles through its many modes. I have not tried brighter Petzl lamps, but they have sensible center pivots, and may even have sane controls. How did the Spot ever make it through product testing? Spend an extra $10-$20 on something useful.

CamelBak Blowfish: rules

It was expensive, but this pack has survived five seasons of vicious use well beyond its design. While it is intended to carry summer stuff plus three liters of water, I have used it to carry gear for long summer days (3,000+ calories plus basics), moderate winter ones (crampons, an ice axe, and snowshoes), and névé/ice solos (two tools plus crampons). In its currently modded state, my Blowfish has two tool loops, but until recently I attached an axe to the reflective thingamajig at the bottom and the thin loop at the top with accessory cord.

It is not without flaws: it distributes weight badly when expanded (it should get wider, not deeper); the water bladder punctures easily (duct tape fixed that) and is hard to re-insert when the pack is full; it lacks front pockets for easily-accessible items; and it doesn’t run particularly well, since the waist strap isn’t substantial enough to hold it in place.

Still, the thing has taken an amazing amount of abuse, with only the outermost zipper and the bottom thingamajig giving out.

Note: For my ice tool mods, I used a #0 grommet kit and some thin accessory cord to add two tool loops to the bottom black material (2 grommets each), and two tool attachments to the top (1 grommet each). I also attach a small camera case to one shoulder strap above the chest strap, and will probably add something to the other to carry food.

$10-$15 sunglasses: rule

If you’re paying more than $15 for your sunglasses, you’re a sucker. I have used cheap K-Mart and gas station sunglasses for the past two summers, and have never suffered snow-blindness.

DeLorme Atlas and Gazetteer: rules

National Forest campsite fees are approaching $20 in many places — roughly what you would pay at a KOA, but with no amenities. For that same $20 you can buy a state’s Gazetteer at most gas stations, with detailed road maps leading you to secluded, free camping. Better yet, they are serviceable topos, far cheaper than the relevant 15′ or 7.5′ USGS quads for spread-out states like Colorado and Washington. They are also great map porn, perfect for sitting down in the evening to peruse a state’s unexplored regions. Don’t waste $5 on lousy road maps, or $20 for a picnic table and fire ring.

In particular, the California Gazetteer even includes abandoned Forest Service trails like the Milestone Basin and Marie Lakes spurs, which are missing from some other maps, and indicates areas of forest and talus.

Trails Illustrated maps 205 and 206: rule

For about $25, these two maps cover most of the interesting parts of the Sierra, albeit with a small gap between Bishop and Mammoth. They list many relevant features, have 100′ contours, and are far cheaper than a stack of USGS quads.